Teknik Makrame dalam Tren Fashion: Ironi terhadap Prisip Dromologi (Studi Kasus Koleksi Spring/Summer Dior 2011)

Waridah Muthi'ah

Abstract


In history, fashion had been used as nonverbal language to indicate job, social class, gender, sexual status, richness, and affiliation to a certain group. Fashion can be used to analyze cultural developments or changes in a certain period or society, which represents their paradigms about beauty, values, and social dynamics. Other than designer’s creativity and market demand, contemporary fashion also influenced by trend, which can be judged by analyze repetitive aspects or elements in a certain season. One of the styles that appears repetitively in the last Spring/Summer 2011 runway is the using of  macramé technique. This old technique that began in Ancient Asia and America, also developed as sailor’s knotting technique in Europe’s Medieval Ages, widely known for its strong,
masculine, yet rustic characters. But, in few designer’s collection,
these images has been transformed to more soft feminine, even girly images, by using soft, light materials and more cherish colors. This article focused to analyze the cultural values behind the usage of macramé technique in some examples of Dior’s 2011 Spring/Summer runway collection, as retrospective to 1960-1970’s fashion. The key concept that differentiate the existing image of macramé fashion and contemporary image in Dior’s collection is the bipolarize of masculine-feminine. Deconstructivism of existing image of certain technique in fashion is the main concept. But behind those scenes, those designs can be viewed as the critic of dromology and
simplicity principles of modern society that also can be seen as an irony related to the capitalism principles in fashion trend cycles.

Keywords: macramé, fashion, trend, concept, dromology


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